There’s No Way That’s 5.11

NattyGray here. I’m going into my 8th year as a routesetter at RJ, and this is the first time I’ve really sat down to discuss an issue regarding climbing grades.

While I’m not the strongest climber on the RJ setting crew (read: I’m the weakest), and I don’t devote much of my free time to climbing these days, I do feel that over my climbing career I’ve attained a solid grasp on grades.

I frequently put up grades that are way beyond my climbing ability (5.13 and V10). I am able to do this because of the knowledge I’ve acquired through routesetting, and because of the time I spend observing folks who are much stronger than I am.  This brings me to my point; when it comes to grades, start by acknowledging your ability.

When I first started climbing I was a newbie. We all were, and some of us currently are. There’s no shame in it at all, and we should never forget where we came from. In my early climbing years I forsook all other activities and did nothing but climb, all the time. I eventually graduated  newbie status and grew wiser and stronger – much stronger than I currently am. Today I climb a solid grade lower on ropes, and I boulder a few digits lower on the V-scale. The reality is that I currently spend more of my time in a pair of running shoes than I do in my Evolvs. This affects my climbing fitness. In my current state it’s important that when offering my suggestions/opinions while forerunning new routes, I’m honest about my current situation.

My current situation: I’m clearly a better runner these days than I am a climber.

Being a better runner came at the cost of losing my climbing strength. I’ll admit that sometimes I get confused and think I’m as strong as I used to be; but I’m not. This means that when I suggest a grade based on my success or failure to climb a route or a boulder problem, I need to offer my suggestion based on my current ability – not the ability I had five years ago. Sometimes it’s a harsh reality for me to face, but I’m not the climber I used to be.

Example: This year I revisited a climb that I love and which I will also argue is the best climb for the grade on the Front Range; Ghost Dance.

I conquered this boulder problem in 2006.

This year I took a trip to the Millenium boulder in hopes of repeating this amazing line. I thought that like my friend Asher in the video, I would “float” to the top and do a little dance while looking down from my twenty-foot perch. I conjured up memories of my experience eight years ago. I remembered the beta, and how super cool the move out of the pocket felt. I remembered the “better” edge hidden above the first right handhold (you’re welcome), and I remembered how satisfying it felt to stand on top.

When I arrived at the boulder with my friend, I couldn’t even pull onto the start holds. Like, at all. I re-chalked and re-tried and seriously, I couldn’t get both feet off the ground. It hurt, both physically and mentally. Then I told myself, “Self, you are not even close to as strong as you used to be. You need to stop drinking beer, lose ten pounds, climb more, and revisit this boulder another day.”

The deterioration of my climbing fitness is due to the time I spend running (and probably many other things, including beer). I don’t have the time nor do I want to bore anybody with all of my reasons. The truth is that others may be  facing  the same reality, only due to different factors. Age, diet, health issues… you name it – I’m sure there are a million reasons. To stay at a high level of climbing requires a lot of work though, and if for whatever reason you stop doing, or something interferes with that hard work, the fitness goes away quickly; very quickly.

So the next time you come off a route or boulder problem (or can’t even start one) – whatever the proposed grade -take an honest assessment not only of the regular “is this my style?” grading assessments, but also of your current ability. And be honest with yourself. It’s okay if you’re not as strong as you used to be – I’m not – and I love climbing more now than ever. I came to terms with this issue recently, and if we’re honest, that route is probably still 5.11.

What are your thoughts on the subject?

 

How Not to Look Like A Newbie, Volume One

Perception is everything. No matter what you were told by your first grade teacher, books are always judged by their cover. Sure, that initial judgement is subject to change when more information is gathered, but a first impression is still a very powerful thing.

With that in mind, here is the first installment of an ongoing series designed to help you not look like a total dweeb at the gym or crag.

Exhibit A: the chalk bag

There is a reason all chalk bags have a belt loop, and that reason is not so you can clip it off to the side on a random gear loop. The chalk bag should be worn around the waist, secured by some sort of belt device (accessory cord, shoe string, nylon belt, etc.) and positioned at the small of your back, providing an equal opportunity for each hand to reach it. And for crying out loud, make sure the dang thing is open!

 

Exhibit B: the bare feet

This should be a no-brainer, for several reasons. Number one, no one else wants to see your nasty climber feet. Gross. The floors are dirty enough as is, pal, so put those things away. Number two, you don’t want your own feet co-existing  with the unidentifiable communal funk that inhabits the surface of every floor. Number three, you need to stand on your toes to climb well, so why increase the risk of bashing your feet on a rock or dropping a quickdraw on your freshly pedicured phalanges? Think of shoes as stylish foot helmets that have the added benefit of protecting future significant others from the sight of your gnarly tootsies.

 

Exhibit C: the bling

Rings, watches, droopy necklaces and hoopy earrings…take ’em off! The only thing a watch can do while you are climbing is break and any other fashionable accoutrements can only get stuck/pinned/caught/pinched/crushed and cause grievous bodily harm and/or disfigurement.

Exhibit D: the harness

First of all, a harness should never be worn while bouldering. Never ever. This is cardinal sin. Second of all, the harness is not where you keep all your climbing crap; that is what a pack is for. A harness should only carry the tools necessary for the task at hand. So if you are in a gym, there should be NOTHING on your harness. Not a nut tool, not a roll of tape, definitely not a chalkbag clipped to a gear loop (see Exhibit A), not a daisy chain girth hitched to your belay loop, not three prussiks and half a rack of quickdraws…NOTHING.

RJ Member Interview: Travis Lester

We interrupted ROCK’n & JAM’n member Travis Lester the other day while he was climbing. We wanted to get his thoughts on the subject, and also take a few unwanted photos. Travis has been a member at RJ since 2011, and it’s possible you’ll bump into him if you’re ever in the gym on a weekday afternoon. He’s a super nice guy, and he’ll most likely be happy to climb with you. Just don’t ask to take his photo.

RJ- How, and when were you introduced to climbing?

Travis- I got introduced to climbing 3 years ago by a friend who moved back to Colorado (from NY) specifically to climb.

RJ- Do you primarily climb on ropes, or spend most of your time bouldering?

Travis- I try to spend my time equally between climbing on ropes and bouldering. However, if I had to choose one over the other, I would choose bouldering because I love the simplicity of it.

 

RJ- On average, how many days a week do you climb?

Travis- I usually climb 3 days/week.

RJ- Do you mostly climb indoor, or outdoor?

Travis- The first couple times I climbed (bouldered) it was outside. I was TERRIBLE and it wasn’t fun. The next time we came into the gym because of bad weather, and I was hooked! I haven’t gone outside since, although I plan on going outside again, eventually.

RJ- What do you like about climbing?

Travis- I like so many things about climbing, but some of my favorites include the simplicity of it, the fact that it’s both physical and mental, and the way it makes me look and feel.

RJ- What aspect of climbing do you find the most difficult or challenging (e.g., slab climbing, overhung terrain, powerful movement, technical stuff, endurance, etc.)?

Travis- I try to climb on everything so that I don’t have any major weaknesses. Even though I’m not great at anything, I don’t find any particular movement or style to be the most difficult/challenging. The only thing I don’t like is awkward movements (like running starts).

Let us take a brief moment to point out that Travis is referring to NattyGray’s new advanced boulder problem at RJ1 which contains a jump start to a large, yellow Project feature, which may be seen here. While Travis enjoys NattyGray’s setting, he does not favor his jump starts. 

RJ- How long have you been climbing at ROCK’n & JAM’n?

Travis- 3 years

RJ- What do you like about ROCK’n & JAM’n?

Travis- Again, I like so many things about RJ, but some of my favorite’s include the well rounded areas for training, the overall comfortable feel of the gym, and all the people that own (present and past), work, and climb there!

RJ- Have you met any other climbers at RJ? If so, do you climb with any of them regularly?

Travis- I’ve met so many climbers, and more importantly great friends, through RJ! I climb with a few of them on a regular basis.

RJ- What is your favorite sport or hobby outside of climbing?

Travis- Running/Reading

RJ- Have you ever tried running, while you were reading? 

RJ- Most climbers get incredibly hungry after a climbing session. What is your favorite post-climbing food?

Travis- It depends. If it’s been a good session I usually head over to Chipotle, to get some quality nutrition. However, if it’s been a “rough” day, nothing makes me feel better than a Dairy Queen!

RJ- If you could be a famous/professional climber, who would you be?

Travis- Fred Nicole!

RJ- Thanks for sharing your thoughts about climbing with us Travis. Keep climbing hard, and we’ll see you in the gym this week!

Whips and Grips Results

First Name	Last Name	Team	Total	Place	Falls
Adult Female
Jodie	Dawson	*None/Not listed	6075.00	1	0
Jeana	Maynard	*None/Not listed	5525.00	2	0
Katharine	McKnight	*None/Not listed	4975.00	3	3
Candice	Hull	*None/Not listed	4650.00	4	0
Junior Female
Kristiana	Fox	Team BRC	5900.00	1	0
Megan	McCutcheon	Team Pure	5225.00	2	0
Female Youth A
Maggie	Boyer	Team BRC	6100.00	1	0
Leah	Bell-Johnson	Team BRC	6100.00	2	2
Rachel	Cohen	Rock’n & Jam’n	5975.00	3	0
Sasha	Rubenfeld	Team BRC	5950.00	4	0
Casey	Alee-Jumbo	Pure Bouldering	5900.00	5	0
Lisa	Kilmer	Team BRC	5875.00	6	0
Maren	Stubenvoll	EarthTreks Golden	5825.00	7	0
Kate	Stern	Team Sik Bird	5700.00	8	0
Anna	Pasnau	Team BRC	5550.00	9	0
Camille	Garcia	Rock’n & Jam’n	5475.00	10	1
Katherine	Austin	Rock Lounge	5350.00	11	0
Female Youth B
Madeline	D’Amato	Team BRC	6100.00	1	0
Joni	Stuart	Team Mojo	6100.00	2	2
Gina	Kelble	Denver Bouldering Club	5975.00	3	0
Kate	Soulliere	Lakewood	5925.00	4	4
Dara	Procell	Team Mojo	5850.00	5	0
Abby	Wilson	Team BRC	5825.00	6	0
Janna	Walls	Team BRC	5775.00	7	0
Kamawela	Leka	Team BRC	5725.00	8	0
Alena	Holbert	Rock’n & Jam’n	5575.00	9	0
Mia	Greene	Rock’n & Jam’n	5475.00	10	0
Sara	Denhoffer	Rock’n & Jam’n	5450.00	11	0
Mackenzie	Whitehead-Bust	Rock’n & Jam’n	5350.00	12	4
Madeline	Sturm	Team Durango	5250.00	13	0
Lexie	Rice	Lakewood	5225.00	14	2
Sara	Seagren	Sport Climbing Center	5175.00	15	0
Tatum	Schmidt	Durango	5000.00	16	1
Zoe	Hopkins	Rock’n & Jam’n	4675.00	17	0
Allison	Riley	Rock’n & Jam’n	4675.00	18	0
Samantha	Krell	Rock’n & Jam’n	4650.00	19	0
alexis	hull	Sport Climbing Center	4575.00	20	0
Moriah	Craddock	*None/Not listed	4050.00	21	0
Sierra	DesPlanques	Rock Lounge	3950.00	22	0
Female Youth C
Brooke	Raboutou	Team ABC	6325.00	1	1
Stella	Noble	Team ABC	6175.00	2	5
Mia	Manson	Team ABC	5975.00	3	0
Corinne	Otterness	Team ABC	5900.00	4	0
Bella	Weksler	Team ABC	5800.00	5	0
Izabela	Nowak	Rock’n & Jam’n	5650.00	6	0
Tali	Maximon	Team BRC	5550.00	7	1
Ligaia	Meyer	Santa Fe Climbing Center	5500.00	8	0
Amanda	MacDonald	Rock’n & Jam’n	5500.00	9	0
Jasmine	Mosberger	Team ABC	5475.00	10	0
Sienna	Kopf	Team ABC	5375.00	11	1
Grace	Ryan	EarthTreks Golden	5250.00	12	0
Caroline	Bechtel	Team BRC	5225.00	13	0
Zoe	Bray	Team BRC	5225.00	13	0
Ali	Poe	Santa Fe Climbing Center	5225.00	13	0
Georgia	Witchel	Rock Lounge	5225.00	13	0
Soma	Smith	Team Durango	5200.00	17	1
Madi	Cyr	Rock’n & Jam’n	5150.00	18	1
Chloe	Kim	Rock’n & Jam’n	5050.00	19	0
Ella	Perington	Team BRC	4950.00	20	0
Taylor	Berry	Lifetime Fitness – Centennial, CO	4800.00	21	0
anna	vertun	Team BRC	4650.00	22	0
Margarite	Ford	Team BRC	4625.00	23	0
Jayden	MacDonald	Rock’n & Jam’n	4625.00	24	0
Cassidy	Nicks	Rock’n & Jam’n	4525.00	25	0
Nina	Kemp	Rock’n & Jam’n	4050.00	26	0
Phoebe	Dolan	Team ABC	3400.00	27	0
Rachel	Junge	Rock’n & Jam’n	2250.00	28	0
Olivia	Day	Team BRC	1725.00	29	0
Mya	Ormsbee	Team BRC	1450.00	30	0
Ariana	O’Brien	Team ABC	700.00	31	0
Female Youth D
Campbell	Sarinopoulos	Team ABC	5950.00	1	0
Kaelyn	Harris	Team ABC	5700.00	2	1
Ella	Von Dungen	Team ABC	5625.00	3	1
Katie	Kelble	Denver Bouldering Club	5600.00	4	0
Anna	Von Dungen	Team ABC	5575.00	5	0
Cadance	Hurt	Lifetime Fitness – Centennial, CO	5525.00	6	0
Layla	Esrey	Team BRC	5375.00	7	1
Sarah	Smith	Team ABC	5275.00	8	1
ceci	davies	Earth Treks	5175.00	9	0
Margaux	D’Amato	Team ABC	5175.00	9	1
Olivia	Kosanovich	Team ABC	5150.00	11	0
Guilia	Luebben	Rock’n & Jam’n	5075.00	12	0
Kiera	Johnson	Lifetime Fitness – Centennial, CO	4975.00	13	0
Ona	Melvin	Lifetime Fitness – Centennial, CO	4975.00	13	1
Mackenzie	Bay	EarthTreks Golden	4950.00	15	0
Kalia	O’Brien	Team Sik Bird	4900.00	16	0
Eliza	Riordan	Team Summit	4750.00	17	0
Eva	Pacheco	DBC	4550.00	18	0
Eleanor	Malcolm	Team ABC	4525.00	19	0
Eve	Weksler	Team ABC	4525.00	19	0
Emma	Saunders	Team ABC	4475.00	21	0
Caroline	Blum	Team ABC	4325.00	22	1
Roya	Behbakht	Rock’n & Jam’n	4250.00	23	1
anna	auer	Santa Fe Climbing Center	4100.00	24	0
Emma	Barwich	Team ABC	4000.00	25	0
Ceri	Evans	Earth Treks	4000.00	25	0
Lydia	Dolan	Team ABC	3425.00	27	1
Male Adult
Michael	Hauck	*None/Not listed	6575.00	1	0
Jeffrey	Stroud	*None/Not listed	6400.00	2	0
Alexander	Raab	*None/Not listed	6250.00	3	4
Dustin	Scow	*None/Not listed	6225.00	4	0
Dave	Dangle	*None/Not listed	5950.00	5	0
Brian	Moore	*None/Not listed	5925.00	6	0
Brent	Fitzwalter	*None/Not listed	5900.00	7	4
Manuel	Valdez	*None/Not listed	5800.00	8	0
Justin	Miller	*None/Not listed	5800.00	8	0
Chris	Downs	*None/Not listed	5450.00	10	0
Kian	Behbakht	*None/Not listed	5175.00	11	0
John	Dine	*None/Not listed	4775.00	12	0
Male Junior
Stefan	Lavender	Team ABC	6550.00	1	0
Jonah	Weil	*None/Not listed	6350.00	2	2
Remi	Arata	Team ABC	6250.00	3	0
Greg	Ledingham	Team BRC	5875.00	4	0
Silas	Carter	Team Pure	5750.00	5	0
Kai	Meyer	Durango	5525.00	6	0
Male Youth A
Ben	Hanna	Santa Fe Climbing Center	6675.00	1	0
Ben	Lindfors	Team BRC	6650.00	2	0
Shawn	Raboutou	Team ABC	6500.00	3	0
Jess	Walker	Rock’n & Jam’n	6275.00	4	0
Quinton	Center	Rock’n & Jam’n	6000.00	5	0
Brendan	Boyd	Rock’n & Jam’n	5925.00	6	0
Taren	Hunter	Pure Bouldering	5900.00	7	0
Ben	Strine	Pure Bouldering	5900.00	7	0
Tristen	Mohn	Santa Fe Climbing Center	5850.00	9	0
Charlie	Malone	Team Durango	5775.00	10	0
Malcolm	Oliver	Team ABC	5650.00	11	0
Parker	Meer	Team Sik Bird	5550.00	12	0
Rollin	Poe	Rock’n & Jam’n	5525.00	13	1
Quincy	Conway	Santa Fe Climbing Center	5500.00	14	0
Jacob	Kibbee	Rock’n & Jam’n	5475.00	15	0
Wesley	While	Rock’n & Jam’n	5475.00	15	0
Jake	Granado	Lifetime Fitness	5300.00	17	0
Brett	Maytubby	Team BRC	5025.00	18	0
Jasper	Pont	Team BRC	5025.00	18	0
Male Youth B
Skylar	Smith	Team Durango	6475.00	1	1
Will	Sharp	Team Texas	6175.00	2	0
Skyler	Bol	*None/Not listed	6050.00	3	0
Kaden	weston	Rock’n & Jam’n	6000.00	4	0
Ian	Center	Rock’n & Jam’n	5975.00	5	0
Jack	Mason	Team BRC	5900.00	6	0
Cole	Myers	Team BRC	5875.00	7	0
Cyrus	Sprow	Team BRC	5875.00	8	1
Mike	Lowe	Rock’n & Jam’n	5825.00	9	0
Zach	Bain	Earth Treks	5725.00	10	0
Aspen	Sivey	Rock’n & Jam’n	5700.00	11	0
Ray	McVicker	Team ABC	5475.00	12	0
Vinnie	Smith	Rock’n & Jam’n	5250.00	13	0
Bryce	Roper	Rock’n & Jam’n	4850.00	14	0
Evan	Williams	Rock’n & Jam’n	4175.00	15	0
Brenden	Jennings	Rock’n & Jam’n	3575.00	16	0
Timmy	Dolan	Team ABC	2550.00	17	0
Male Youth C
Joe	Goodacre	Team ABC	6325.00	1	0
Callum	Caulson	Team BRC	5575.00	2	1
Tommy	Pasnau	Team BRC	5450.00	3	0
Jordan	Fishman	Rock’n & Jam’n	5325.00	4	0
jack	Esrey	Team BRC	5275.00	5	0
Noah	Morton	Team BRC	5275.00	5	0
Jackson	Wetherill	Santa Fe Climbing Center	5225.00	7	2
Zach	Arenberg	Lifetime Fitness – Centennial, CO	5100.00	8	0
Ian	Greene	Team BRC	5000.00	9	0
Jonathan	Malavasi	Rock’n & Jam’n	4950.00	10	0
Mason	Smith	Rock’n & Jam’n	4350.00	11	1
bilal	hannon	Rock’n & Jam’n	4250.00	12	0
Marcus	Smith	Rock’n & Jam’n	2100.00	13	0
Devin	Wong	Team Sik Bird	1000.00	14	0
Male Youth D
Colin	Duffy	Team ABC	6175.00	1	1
Cody	Stevenson	Team ABC	6000.00	2	3
Tanner	Bauer	Team BRC	5725.00	3	0
Chris	Dento	Team BRC	5700.00	4	0
Benji	Dantas	Vail Athletic Club	5675.00	5	0
Brody	Nielsen	Vail Athletic Club	5675.00	6	2
Lukas	Bergsten	Vail Athletic Club	5475.00	7	0
Kaitek	Johnston	Team BRC	5400.00	8	0
Calvin	Boasberg	Team ABC	5350.00	9	1
rand	noah	Team BRC	5300.00	10	0
Tyg	Guggenheim	Team ABC	5200.00	11	0
lowe	lukey	Rock’n & Jam’n	5175.00	12	1
Shafer	Helms	Rock’n & Jam’n	5100.00	13	0
Samuel	Kuepper	Team ABC	5100.00	13	0
Solomon	Fitzgerald	Sport Climbing Center	5075.00	15	0
St. John	Tsuno-Wayne	Team BRC	5050.00	16	0
Alex	Williams	Team ABC	4975.00	17	0
Boone	Schafer	Santa Fe Climbing Center	4950.00	18	0
Sergio	Delgato	Rock’n & Jam’n	4775.00	19	1
Jackson	Turner	*None/Not listed	4550.00	20	0
Evan	Kuepper	Team ABC	4250.00	21	0

RJ Youth Team Interview

Varsity Team Climber: Max Donovan

Age: 14

Years Climbing: 4

Joined ROCK’n & JAM’n Varsity Team: 2011

We sat down with Max Donovan to get an idea of what climbing on RJ’s Varsity Team is like, and also to ask him a few questions about climbing in general.

RJ: You have an interesting story about how your climbing career started. Will you share a little about how you discovered climbing?

MD: I first learned about climbing from a 4th grade teacher of mine who climbed avidly, after expressing my interest, she decided that, while on a field trip to Colorado Monument National Park, she would take me to do some easy climbing. I fell in love with the sport and started as soon as I moved to Denver.

RJ: What do you like about climbing, in general?

MD: To me, climbing encompasses everything I love in a sport, an outdoor experience, a physical and mental workout, an amazing community, and most of all, the feeling of freedom.

RJ: What do you hate about climbing? What aspects of climbing are the most difficult for you?

MD: To me, the most grueling aspect of climbing is the feeling the day after a strong climb, being ridiculously sore can really put a damper on your day.

RJ: Do you primarily boulder, or climb on ropes? Which do you like more?

MD: I like to think my climbing is pretty balanced between the two, but when it comes down to it, bouldering is my passion. The short bursts of power and strategy mixed with a variety of moves makes bouldering my favorite.

 RJ: Tell us a little about the Youth Team. Why did you join? What have you learned, and how has your climbing changed or improved since you joined?

MD: The youth team at RJ is an amazing thing to be a part of, it is a great opportunity to climb with friends, while at the same time learning so much about climbing. Since I joined the youth team, I have felt my level of strength on the wall absolutely soar, my technique and confidence in my climbing have also been hugely improved by my experience in the youth team.

RJ: Do you participate in any other school or extracurricular activities besides climbing? If so, how does climbing compare to these?

MD: Every year, I compete in cross-country with the team at my school. I mostly do it as cross training to improve cardio and leg strength, but it is also a great way to get outside once and a while. While they both provide a great workout, running doesn’t provide the fun and excitement that comes with climbing.

RJ: Do kids at your school ever ask you about climbing? If so, what do you tell them?

MD: Kids at my school are always very intrigued when I tell them I climb. They mostly ask about grading scales and how competitions work, a few want to know about the kind of exercise it provides, but a couple always want to come try it for themselves. I tell them about climbing in the best way I can, but always give the advice to try it for themselves to get the full effect.

RJ: Do you have any climbing goals? What are they?

MD: In climbing, I’m always striving to climb harder, and for me that means breaking down mental limits and building up technique and strength. In climbing, being mentally strong is a huge part of the battle, and that’s the one I’m trying to win.

RJ: You participated in several competitions this year with the Youth Team. What is it like, climbing in a comp?

MD: Climbing at a competition is always a completely different experience depending on where it is and what format the comp has. The consistent changes from recreational to competition climbing are a more challenging atmosphere, a more aggressive approach, and a cheering crowd.

Max (pictured right) after his 2nd place finish at the 2013 Teva Mountain Games

RJ: Do you have any climbing heroes? Who are they?

MD: I don’t have any specific climbing heroes, but there are definitely people who I have climbed with who I respect for their skill and the advice that they give me. One of these people is definitely my coach, Tim Rice.

                              Max and coach “Timmy-Time” Rice

RJ: Most climbers get amazingly hungry after a climbing session. We’ve heard of everything from chocolate milk to chips and salsa. What is your favorite post-climbing food?

MD: I always find a cold Snickers cools me down, re-energizes me, and is delicious. Other than that, I like to drink yellow Gatorade while I climb.

RJ: Thanks for sharing some of your thoughts about climbing with us Max; and good luck climbing with the Varsity Team this semester!

To find out more about R&J youth programs, visit http://climbthebest.com/instruction.php#KidsPrograms

 

managing your expectations on a climbing trip (or how to cope with the fact that you’re not going to send the one climb that you were really psyched to try to send)

success and failure while on a climbing trip…the high point and the low point. if you have ever taken an extended trip to just climb (at least a week), you have stared this demon straight in the face. how much time do you devote to one climb, when you only have a limited window to actually climb? should you sample more climbs at a lower grade and get more volume in? these are, no doubt, the burning questions in your mind right now.

obviously, there is no easy answer. there rarely is. but the easiest answer, in my mind, depends on one factor: how familiar are you with the area, i.e. its rock type and/or the style of climbing? if you’re visiting a new area, it is probably wise to step down the grade difficulty and climb for volume. this allows you to get used to the subtleties of the area and gives you a good base of “knowledge” for moving on that specific rock. but if you go back to an area that you have previously spent some time, the answer isn’t quite as easy to arrive at.

projecting something at your local crag is one thing. you can put time in on the climb intermittently, and there isn’t really much pressure (all things considered) since you can typically get to it at your leisure. for all intents and purposes you have “all the time in the world.” but several things can work against you when you decide to project something while on a trip: there is a finite amount of time; the time invested versus the payout or reward of sending may not be worth it; climbing a bunch of routes below your limit might be boring; there may be other people working the same route and you have to play nice with others, etc. thus the conundrum.

one thing working in your favor is that while on a trip, you are usually just climbing. you aren’t bogged down with the minutiae of the daily grind. you can tune out all that other stuff and focus a bit more on remembering beta, sequences, and details of one particular climb. you can get the necessary fitness and strength with few distractions.

ultimately it comes down to your level of confidence in your ability to send the route. this is not something you will know right off the bat. i would recommend getting on your chosen project route early on in your trip, ideally within the first few days. this way, you know what you’re up against in terms of style and difficulty. after you have been on it a few times, that confidence level will kick in (or not…), and in your own head you start to know if your goal is actually reasonable and attainable.

i have personally had both ends of this spectrum, oddly enough at the same place, the red river gorge. bear with me for a little longer, it’s story time!

flashback to early october 2010. i had a 10 day trip planned for the red. i had just finished a sunday shift at the north gym (9a to 6p), and right after locking the door, i hopped in my car and started driving east. i made it as far as columbia, mo, before the proverbial wheels fell off the bus and i had to stop. driving solo for that many hours after a full day is rough! after sleeping for a bit, i continued east and arrived in slade, ky, by 6p. i met up with some friends, drank whiskey, beer and ale8, then went to bed.

that next morning, feeling really rusty and stiff from the drive, we headed down to the ‘motherlode’.

the madness cave at the motherlode

my intended project was ‘bohica‘ (13b), in the madness cave, a brilliantly steep route out a 45 deg angle wall with perfect 1- to 1.5-pad deep edges the whole way. it’s absolutely amazing.

so after warming up on a few classic routes (chainsaw massacre and ale-8-one) it was time to test the waters on bohica. the first burn was a junk show! the moves felt really hard, and i didn’t have the endurance to do more than 2 bolts at a time. i had my work cut out for me.

the next day, we went back to the ‘lode. it was time for me to get my endurance up in preparation of starting to link sections on bohica. so i decided that i was going to go for a no fall/no take day, and no pitch could be easier than 5.12a. so myself and my friend ‘little’ dan proceeded to knock out pitch after pitch of 12a and 12b for an entire day. i ended up doing 10 pitches, dan got in 12, and we thankfully had a no fall/no take day. completely worn out, but psyched with a good endurance day.

the next several days were spent working bohica, with a rest day tossed in there somewhere. each day i got on the route twice, and each day i was linking more sections, and getting high points. my confidence was building.

my final climbing day of the trip, i went out with my buddy nik. he also had a project at the ‘lode, so off we went. after warming up and giving nik a catch on his route, we walked over to bohica for the ‘hail mary’ attempt. first section of the route felt easy and robotic and with seemingly no effort, i found myself at the first rest, staring at the remaining 60 feet of that perfect 45 deg angle wall above me. after lowering my heart rate, i launched into the rest of the route. each move was executed with confidence and precision. there were no wasted movements, no second guessing. before i knew it, i was at the final rest looking at the last 15 feet and the anchors. i composed myself and fired. i made it to the anchor, clipped, yelled triumphantly, then lowered back down to the ground. i drove back to the house, packed up my stuff and started the drive home. success!

contrast that with my recent trip earlier this month. the first few days were spent getting used to the rock again, as it had been 3 years since my last trip. plus, my endurance these days feels fairly poor, compared to previous times and trips. everything felt hard. things that i had sent previously felt so much more difficult! i was up against a big challenge with extremely low confidence.

so third day, i got to check out my intended project: ‘swingline‘ (13d) at a crag called ‘the dark side‘. i did the moves first try on the route, and got incredibly psyched. it broke down as a 5.13a/b to a very poor rest to a legit v8 boulder problem. while i rested at the base of the route, i started thinking about what was actually necessary to send this thing. getting to the poor rest on link would have been a healthy goal, and probably doable. but to tack on a v8 boulder problem after that seemed daunting. after much internal debate, i decided that i lacked the necessary fitness to put it away in the amount of time left and ultimately had to walk away from it. i was bummed. this line is beautiful and inspiring, and a very sought after route. but it wasn’t to be. i found another fun line there, ‘tuskan raider‘ (12d) that i was able to send 3rd try. that ended up being my only real send for the trip.

swingline

while the trip as a whole was incredibly fun due to the good company of old and new friends, i consider the climbing side of it to be a bit of a failure. this was due to poor training before hand, leading to generally bad fitness, etc. i have to make sure that i am better prepared for the next go ’round.

so there you have it…both ends of the spectrum. success and failure. elation and frustration. in the end, you just have to look at the whole situation. sometimes you decide to throw your chips in, sometimes you throw the cards away instead and wait for the next round. someone famous once said ” you gotta know when to hold ’em, know…”. eh, never mind, you get the idea.

The Spot on the Wall

It is a little known fact and something I do not broadcast publicly, but I have minor precognitive abilities that let me read your mind; if I tune in on the correct brain wave oscillatory frequency your thoughts become clear as a crisp autumn day. So, to answer your not-yet-posed question: yes, spotting in the gym is really important and you should never be afraid to ask for a spot or provide a spot to a fellow climber when asked.

How do I spot and why is it so important, you will ask in the very-near future. Allow me to elaborate:

Spotting is to bouldering what belaying is to route climbing and as such it is critical that, as a spotter, you are attentive and prepared to execute your duties and keep your buddy from breaking their neck. What is proper technique? How do I know when to spot? Fortunately for you the RJ1 varsity youth team has the skills to pay the bills when it comes to spotting and is here to show you the ropes (mixed metaphor, I know…) as it were.

Exhibit A

On drastically overhanging terrain the focus is on the climber’s hips. On the steeps your body is more inclined to swing out when you fall, and a good spot at the hips makes it easier to redirect the falling climber than the typical shoulder spot. Notice Mike has his hands up with enough distance to allow Brenden to swing and his eyes focused on Brenden’s center of mass, not the cute girl at the drinking fountain or another climber elsewhere in the gym. Also notice that with the confidence of Mike’s good spot, Brenden is gunning for the send in proper style.

Exhibit B

On less steep terrain the focus shifts up to the climber’s armpits. Again you will notice Max’s attention is on Kaden and not anyone or anything else. He is giving Kaden enough room to sag out from the wall without dabbing but is ready to support his torso and give him enough time to disengage his heel hook. Max is not trying to catch Kaden; he is merely trying to give Kaden enough time to get his feet under him in case of an unexpected fall.

Exhibit C

Here Izabela and Amanda employ the power spotting technique. The power spot is used either to help the climber learn a move or allow a climber to skip past some moves in order to try others. Izabela is actually pushing Amanda into the wall, providing support at her waist so that Amanda can get a feel for the body positions of the crux sequence. Experienced boulderers apply the power spot often on hard projects, and it is not uncommon for  climber and spotter to have a detailed system down. For instance, Amanda can say “give me five pounds,” meaning Izabela will push Amanda into the wall with roughly five pounds of force. When working a specific move with a power spot it is good to reduce the amount of weight taken on each attempt.

 

As with any form of climbing, how safe you are is largely up to you. It is your duty as a climber to request a spot if you feel sketched on a particular move or problem. Conversely, it is your prerogative to provide a spot when one is asked of you. As with belaying, communication between spotter(s) and climber is critical. Let your spotters know if you want a spot for a specific move or for the entire climb. Do not be intimidated to ask for a power spot; no one will judge you*. As a spotter, make sure the landing zone is clear and that others in the area are aware that your homie might be coming in hot. Like Captain Planet said: the power is yours!

 

 

 

* Okay, maybe some crusty old Traddie will judge you. Tell them to go climb a tower and carry on with your session.

To Wobble or Not to Wobble?

Throw a wobbler (phrase):

To get really angry. Have a tantrum. See also screaming fit, berserk, rage.

Perhaps my favorite bit of slang I’ve picked up via the climbing community is the phrase “toss a wobbler.” I can’t remember the first time I heard it used, but I do remember the first time I witnessed a climber in the midst of wobbling. I was clawing my way up one of the few sub-5.12 climbs in Rifle Mountain Park when I heard a hoarse, primitive howl reverberate through the narrow canyon. At first I thought someone had sent their project, but the string of eloquent curse words that followed seemed to indicate otherwise. “That will never be me,” I thought.

Like baseball, skateboarding, and panning for gold, climbing involves a lot of failure and a healthy portion of pain and frustration; most of the time the bear eats you.

In order to succeed on a personal limit climb one must invest oneself in said climb. You gotta psych yourself up for those gnarly crimps, yo. You must put your pain in a box, lock the box and throw away the key. One does not simply earn victory by showing up. There are no half measures. Do or do not, there is no try. You get the idea.

The point is, I used to see someone toss a wobbler and think “get a grip, man.” Climbing is fun and I couldn’t understand how anyone could get so upset doing something so enjoyable. But as the years passed and I focused on climbing as hard as I could, I found that it is not always so fun, not always so enjoyable. Sometimes you rip a flapper, sometimes you pump out at the chains, sometimes you miss the pads, and failure is never fun.

So about investing oneself in a climb… Success at the highest level of your ability takes complete commitment to the end result; you gotta *go for it.* When you’re going for it and you fail, it is natural to be frustrated and, speaking for myself, the only way to commit entirely to another attempt at the rig is to vent that frustration. Enter the wobbler.

My go to is the chalk bag toss (though I’m always careful to close the bag first…leave no trace and whatnot) usually accompanied by a quiet-but-severe expletive or two. Ten seconds or so of venting and I’m good to go. By nature I am not an angry person, and I definitely understand the necessity of respecting other people’s space and enjoyment of nature. This is just my way of letting off steam so that I can pour myself back into the task at hand.

While I find Adam Ondra’s outbursts excessive to say the least, I now understand where those outbursts come from and can appreciate how hard he tries and how much of himself he puts into climbing at the absolute highest level.

Naturally, you are entitled to your own opinion on the matter. Agree? Disagree? Leave a comment and we can work it out.

Dr. Dre’s Cure for Elbow Tendonitis

Back in the days when I was a teenager (before I had status and before I had a pager), there was an entirely different approach to my climbing. As is common with the youthful sect, patience, planning, and strategy were not arrows in my quiver. I wanted to be on top of the boulder and I did not give a hoot in hell about conserving energy, utilizing prime conditions, or injury prevention; I just went for it.

That was a long time ago. Dre put it best when he said “things just ain’t the same for gangstas, times is changin’, young (gentlemen) is aging, becoming old G’s in the game and changin’ to make way for these new names and faces…” Not sure if the Doctor was referring to climbing, but it’s all the same to me. My body is older and slower to recover. Climbing hurts more than it used to. Working has taken over a larger portion of my time and rising gas prices coupled with a growing sense of financial responsibility have made tri-weekly trips to Chaos Canyon and beyond things of the past. So it goes.

I strive to maintain a high standard in my climbing, and I understand that to remain at the level I am accustomed to adjustments to my training routines, climbing schedule, and overall strategy need to be made.

Problem: When I climb too much my elbows, fingers, and skin hurt, among other body parts.

Solution: I climb less now than at any point in my career. However, when I do climb it is focused on specific goals. By decreasing the volume of climbing while increasing the intensity I am able to get stronger while limiting exposure to overuse injuries. Five hour gym sessions are no more, in their place are two hour training blocks that work a particular facet of climbing, be it power, core strength, finger strength, endurance, technique, or general fitness.

Problem: I can’t spare the time to climb outside as much as I used to.

Solution: Make it count! I used to go to my project whenever I could, regardless of conditions or freshness. Now I am more selective, only attempting projects on days when the weather will cooperate and I feel well rested. You have to give yourself the highest probability of success that you can; good temps and fresh muscles help a good deal in that area.

Problem: It takes my body longer to repair itself after a rough day of climbing than it used to.

Solution: Again, make it count! Proper stretching, a protein drink and decent meal after climbing go a long way towards not feeling like death the next morning. More importantly, and this is especially hard for me, make fewer attempts on the project and rest longer in between burns. Once you have dialed in the movement, there is no reason to try a climb if you do not feel with a high degree of certainty that you can send. If I still feel a little pumped or my skin still stings a bit, I sit back down and wait until I feel completely ready. Take the time to clean any part of your shoe that will touch stone. Is there a tick mark on the hidden topout jug? Better take a minute and put one on there. While there is something to be said about the power of sheer will and determination, in my experience this has gotten me up a boulder far less often than proper rest and preparation. Leave nothing to chance…

None of this is to say I am old or anything. Far from it. However, with every passing year I am more aware of the aging process and how it effects physical performance, and with that awareness comes an ability to adapt and progress. I eagerly anticipate the next ten years of climbing to be better than the first.

Journey vs. Destination and Whatnot

A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to summit Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. I have spent somewhere near 150 days bouldering in the Park and had never more than glimpsed the famed peak from the confines of the talus fields I enjoy so much. So under the cruel tutelage of my co-workers/besties, I hauled myself up the Cables and enjoyed a hot espresso at the summit. There are worse ways to spend a Sunday.

At any rate, the highlight of the day was watching a party attempting the Casual Route up the legendary Diamond. Somewhere in the deep recesses of my mind has lurked the notion of ascending that clean triangle of alpine granite, and seeing its pristine face close up rekindled that desire. I have done approximately zero multipitch alpine trad routes, so I have a lot to learn before attempting any route on the Diamond, but the goal is set.

While it was a good feeling to stand on top of Longs with a great group of close friends, what was most interesting was how much I would have preferred to take a more difficult route to the summit. Or, rather, the Diamond is so much cooler in my mind, probably because it is more difficult and definitely because it looks more badass.

That thought got my mind churning over my motivation for climbing and why I have dedicated my life to it for nine years. I enjoy the social aspect of climbing, bouldering in particular, and I definitely enjoy getting out into the quiet hills and seeing marmots and stuff but, ultimately, I am motivated by difficulty and the necessity of pushing myself to grasp at success on difficult lines. Which isn’t to say I want a big number attached to a climb, though that is always a bonus. Rather, I do not feel fulfilled unless there is some amount of suffering, pain, anger, failure, blind rage, and/or frustration involved in the overall process. To me it is not about being on top of a climb, it is about getting on top of a climb (that’s what she said?). If it was always easy what would be the point?

Judging by the amount of folks on Longs in shorts and sandals and the wide array of body types visible under those shorts and sandals, it is safe to say nearly anyone is capable of hiking to the top. The route we took was not difficult, nor was it easy; frigid, soaking wet alpine 5.4 is absolutely no joke. But I didn’t have to learn anything, didn’t have to make any adjustments to my technique or approach, didn’t have to go to that primitive place in my psyche where the body takes over and the mind is only an observer. Those are the moments that keep me motivated, keep me working towards the overall goal which is…I dunno, to get to the top, or something.

Longs story short (ha), next summer I am going to try the Casual Route. Someone is going to have to teach me about building belays and placing cams and hauling haul bags and things of that sort, and I’m going to have to confront the abject terror I feel towards non-bouldering methods of climbing, but that is the point. Even if I have to rappel (fortunately I do know how to do this…) off the first pitch and never make the summit, the whole process is one that will challenge me and put me outside my comfort zone and, hopefully, progress my overall climbing ability.

Unrelated note: someone please teach me how to trad climb…