Candyshop Reset

In case you haven’t noticed, the Candyshop and Moon Board at RJ1 have received some recent lovin’. New holds, new problems, new levels of strength. We are working on a catalog of all the problems and variations that have been done so that you can browse through them and pick out the climbs that will most help you train your weaknesses. In the meantime, here is a sample of a power-endurance circuit that I’ve run a couple times now. Disclaimer: all climbs are done on complete hold sets unless otherwise indicated.

Warmup: 100 easy moves on Adjustable Wall set to 15 degree angle.

Set One: 

Blue Tape (open feet)

Blue Tape (tracking)

Blue Tape (yellow feet)

Five minute rest

Black e-Grips Fingerbuckets (tracking)

Black e-Grips Fingerbuckers (yellow feet)

Five minute rest

Blue Teknik Clippers (tracking)

Blue Teknik Clippers (yellow feet)

Five minute rest

Yellow Teknik Jugs (tracking)

Yellow Teknik Jugs (yellow feet

Ten minute rest

Set Two:

Red e-Grips Pure Edges (start on Project double hueco, tracking only)

e-Grips Pockets (with double hueco, tracking only)

Orange e-Grips Buttons (start on tan Dillo jug, yellow feet to start then tracking)

Ten minute rest

Set Three:

Blue e-Grips Buttons (tracking)

Black ETCH ‘power ladder’ (tracking)

Red e-Grips with Tufa (tracking)

Ten minute rest

Set Four:

Green ETCH (tracking)

Green e-Grips Comfy Crimps (tracking)

Tan e-Grips Dillo Jug (campus)

Ten minute rest

Set Five: Sandwiches

Think of the primary climb as the bread and the secondary climb as the meat. No resting between bread and meat!

Yellow Teknik/Blue Tape/Yellow Teknik

Five minute rest

Blue Teknik/Blue Tape/Blue Teknik

Five minute rest

Black e-Grips/Blue Tape/Black e-Grips

Notes: all climbs start on any of the three blue jugs at the bottom of the wall with two (only two!) yellow feet. Yellow feet = ETCH footholds, not the nice Teknik crimps.

Next up: Adjustable Wall circuits. Stay tuned for more training updates…

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